08/18/03

Spirited neighborhood restaurant keeps everything fresh, changing the menu and even the paintings every few months.

by Contributor

The Scene
Colorful and stylish. White linen and black furniture contrast with pomegranate walls hung with the bright oils of local artists Wilfong and Donna Dowless. You can also sit outside at one of four sidewalk tables and watch College Park in action. Service is professional but low-key. Don't count on speed, though

The Food
Original. Culinary Institute of America grad Kevin Fonzo picks a quarterly theme--say, Asian or Tuscan--and plays with flavors, colors, and textures. Lunch features creative salads and sandwiches; dinner a smattering of land, sea, and pasta dishes, as well as knockout desserts. Highlights of the Asian period included Hoisin duck breast and Asian chicken salad. For dessert, the "lava" cake oozes warm fudge onto three scoops of vanilla ice cream, and you can even eat the pansy.

• Pros: sweet, local hangdelicious food
• Cons: slow service