Russian bakers offer a "Nutcracker" fantasy of pastries, sundries and charcuterie.. The Scene Geared for takeout, Lacomka seats only three small parties at tall, round tables with stools. Sparkly clean refrigerator cases full of five-layered honey cakes, meringues, salamis and salted fish flank a small counter in front.
The Food Get sandwiches, deli salads and luscious baked goods. Bread and sandwich rolls are made fresh every morning. If you have 40 minutes to kill, call ahead for a baked-to-order hachapuri, a traditional Georgian individual bread stuffed with cheese and topped with an egg. To feed two, add a half-dozen meat blintzes or vareniki potato-and-onion dumplings in cream sauce. For a cholesterol-free side dish, try the vinigret salad, cubes of beets and potatoes tossed with kidney beans and parsley in olive oil dressing. Skip the Russian milkshake, flavored with perfumed fruit syrup, and the piroshki--it's popular, but more bread than stuffing.